Oakbrook, one of Chicago’s tonier western suburbs, may be known for upscale shopping, affluent living and as McDonald’s long time corporate center. But for food lovers it has another, perhaps even more important, claim to fame. It’s also home to El Tapeo, a true treasure of a restaurant specializing in Spanish cuisine.
With its steam-lined modernist décor and quietly nestled on the ninth floor of the Le Meridien hotel, the restaurant, under the leadership of Chef William Bothell is creating some of the best food in the metropolitan area across all categories and has very few equivalents in Chicago itself.
Stimulating options, depth, extensive variety and consistently high culinary skill converge to make El Tapeo a standout to be sought out.
As should be expected in any Spanish restaurant inspired by tradition, El Tapeo offers a sweeping range of tapas or small shareable plates. Twenty-one to be exact with enough diversity to ignite the imagination of even the mildly curious. Achieving precision levels of balance to create unforgettable flavors seems to be a specialty the kitchen revels in. From small plates to entrees and desserts, there’s always an element of surprise, a touch of the unexpected, that turns the dish into something joyful.
That was certainly true of the gazpacho made with heirloom tomatoes, cucumber and olive oil. Not at all chunky nor overly chilled, it was laced with smoky undertones and packed with pleasing subtlety. A new item on the menu, the albondigas, were lamb meatballs on a bed of ancho chili sauce and topped with shards of fennel, apple, micro-greens and tiny marigold petals. It may have been a little odd that they were served at room temperature, but it didn’t detract from how deliciously the mélange worked together. The chicken and mushroom empanadas, loosely bound together with harissa cream, were stunning for such a simple dish. Rather than a thick dough, their casings were flaky and tender envelopes holding the perfectly prepared protein/vegetable combo. For richness and a satisfying contrast of salty and sweet, the bacon wrapped dates with marcona almonds served in a somewhat bold, slightly spicy bravas sauce were food trinkets you could keep going back to all night long.
Finding a gratifying paella can be a little like searching for the fountain of youth. A noble effort that often leads to disappointment. A trip to Barcelona didn’t even make that wish come true a few years ago. El Tapeo has four to choose from and are conscientious enough to offer them in half or full orders. Depending on your appetite, or following a generous assortment of tapas, a half-order could easily satisfy two people. Two of the paellas skew more traditional and two cater to specialized tastes. They all feature a superb saffron rice base and an ingenious technique that brings white wine and saffron together to guarantee unforgettable flavor.
With shrimp, chicken, onion, pepper, peas and chorizo, the paella de diablo could be thought a fair interpretation of a classic paella, which might be a bit disingenuous to claim. Paella is a dish that’s infinitely customizable and what’s classic can vary for a host of reasons. With mussels, the paella de diablo would still approach a more standardized ideal. At El Tapeo, mussels are in the seafood forward interpretation, the paella de mariscos which also includes clams as well as shrimp. They’re both excellent with irresistible texture and flavor. A vegetarian option and a paella de carne, showcasing braised short ribs, are also available.
How and why men and women become outstanding chefs is always fascinating and, from information found in interviews, Chef Bothell’s road to his profession is no exception. Tragedy, followed by exposure to seeing how vital food can be in bringing people together, made him want to become a chef at 14. Once settled in his craft, he soon committed himself to letting “the best ingredients shine” in his cooking. That fidelity to purpose surely accounts for the consistently high quality of product that streams from his kitchen. The chef’s current menu favorite, the alcachofa, encapsulates his ideal. Fried artichokes with caper berries, serrano ham vinaigrette, golden raisins and caper aioli, the dish swings blithely from salty to sweet and from the fatty to the acidic in perfectly balanced harmony.
Just as delectable in the dessert category, the Valor chocolate crunch cake is something you never want to end. Sitting on a swoosh of toasted marshmallow, cake squares with a prominent layer of dark chocolate mousse are both a delight and a small wonder with every bite. The crunch comes from a wispy thin wafer on the cake’s base; providing a third texture to entertain the palette. Sophisticated, delicious and fun, it’s the kind of star turn anyone would crave to cap an outstanding meal.
Photos by Mitchell Oldham and courtesy of El Tapeo Modern Spanish Kitchen
For more information on El Tapeo, or to make a reservation, please call 630-828-2044 or visit their website
Address: 2100 Spring Road, Oakbrook, IL
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